2013年6月4日星期二

Top 6 BA graduates designers parade CSM


  Last Tuesday, the great hall at Central Saint Martins School of Art in London has been converted into a makeshift bridge, with a lot of photographers around the lights in the city gathered at the end of the take-off and landing runway and the bouncer suit black heralds guests to their places. British Vogue fashion editors to notable elders, he seemed quite a number of fashionable London had for the parade BA MSC mode, an annual showcase of the best and brightest talent to a school for a course known proven fashion design first positive cycle, the remarkable designers, including Stella McCartney, Sarah Burton and Giles Deacon, who has produced acted as master of ceremonies of the evening.

"There are many lush colors in this year, and the use of unusual materials," director Willie Walters said during BoF. "Feeling is quite urban, yet sporty enough, as in simple rather than performance!"

In fact, featured the vibrant colors of pastel aqua green Cassandra Verity in Pepto Bismol pink Natasha Somerville, and sportswear influences strongly shown in the 40 mini-collections on the runway, each on a different band. Androgyny and gender bending, and running issues during the show, of course, seen and disrespectful, "Marie-Antoinette-meets-drag queen size sets Edward Marler.

Womenswear graduate Mao left Usami presented with the L'Oreal Professional Young Talent Award Design L ',, creative director of the famous old Phoebe Philo of Celine. But there were six designers, particularly illuminated radar BoF with clothes miracle enthusiastic and has to think of us.

Nathaniel Lyles - Mesh

"Some of it is old and a lot of sexuality and come to break free from traditions of masculinity and femininity", Knitwear designer said Nathaniel Lyles his graduate collection. Diagram Case Kaleidoscope a technique that Grand Prix winner who has developed LVMH scholarship in his second year at Saint Martins was colorful enameled copper wire, knitted experimenting with three-dimensional network.

In his workshop compact but spotlessly clean in Tottenham, north London, the 22 year-old Yorkshire offered us a cup of tea and told BoF his training "very normal." Creative talent runs in his family - both parents studied fashion design and textile production, and his cousin is a designer handbag, the models seen with Lyles with square pockets on the slopes.

"I was always drawing and painting. He grew up in a textile factory work, and I began to take my fabrics in my designs," Lyle, who had drawn on the network as an extension of his love for the creation of its own tissue and be told can be "a bit of a perfectionist about things and possessive and a bit."

Lyles cited Dawn Wiener, the lanky star 1995 American coming-of-age comedy Welcome to the Dollhouse, as his muse for his collection, the voltage and downs of puberty affected. For this purpose, he uses a variety of fun colors on heavy shades of aqua and fuchsia candy. "I wanted the colors actually pretty disgusting in itself and should not be used together were, but they really like to do," Lyles said. To compensate for the feminine palette open, Lyles will equip its models with masculine brogues and held "very butch" form.

With investments in mega-luxury brand Christian Dior and contemporary label Proenza Schouler under his belt, he acknowledged his studies was torn between Lyles, works created with a label (with a few interviews lined up already) and smote it. "I think I could be more to do with this technology," he said. "I feel like I'm somewhere where there'm really looks good, because [for] about six months when it looked terrible."

Roni Ilan - Menswear

"I think in menswear you have a lot of rules and I want to break the rules in any way," said Roni Ilan fun. Originally from Israel, Ilan is a rare example of a female designer menswear. Small stature yet quietly confident, she fell to her fashion design after a degree in finance has failed to inspire. Ilan recovered quickly. "Very quickly," she said BoF, snapping his fingers to attract attention. "In a second, I decided that I comes to fashion."

It was an unconventional way to guide his career, but after his instinct Ilan served. The starting point of the collection purpose, a series of monochrome outfits with a minimum of curved aluminum sculpture worn by the late Japanese-American sculptor Isamu Noguchi, whose organic forms inspired stone with hollow centers immediately caught the attention of Ilan. "I felt as to what he was doing that I had to use it connected," she recalls.

Roni Ilan Inspiration | Photo: Ahmed Shahriyar for BoF

Ilan has sought to project a strong, hyper-masculine identity in his creations. Jackets were to take subtly perhaps wider at the back than the front, to resume the course a superhero. The use of a nonwoven material compressed commercially traded Alcantara, resists fraying when cut to "faffing around hems" stop and that a clean uniform appearance.

The long, paperclip-shaped neckpiece for the long monastic mantle and helmet ball glass for a jacket and shorts - the same philosophy, the way they matched informed his sculpture along with a proportionally. "The main thing was, they are very connected to each other, a different look from all sides, front, side and rear. It was [with] many subtle decisions. I think you just feel not see," she said.

After modern dandy Thom Browne and experimental uniform enthusiast William Richard Green worked, Ilan is open in terms of what is to be expected, but will take on wearable sculptures always have a soft spot for his own: "I want to be able to to do this and to do this, you need your own label. "






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